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Basic Loom Weaving By Sharon Bateman
 There are many different looms available to day, some will come with instructions some will not. The basic principle for looms is that you string threads onto it to form the foundation for your beadwork. These threads are called warp threads. The length and width of your beadwork will be defined by how many threads, and how long your threads are. This will be limited to the size of your loom. For larger, longer pieces you will need a larger loom that will be longer than your desired length
 To string a loom, you attach your thread at one end, run the thread to the other side and attach it there. There is usually a spring or other devise to keep the threads separate and also something to attach the threads to. You will attach as many threads as needed to accommodate your beads. I like to have at least 12 inches of threads at each end. These threads will need to be worked into your work. By having an ample length you can make fringe, or weave a chain with them. When on the loom the tension should be taught on your threads. I also like to place a space between the threads for ease in counting. I will string on 10 threads, leave a small space and then string another ten. This will be helpful when you are string a large amount of threads.
The number of threads across should be 1 more than the desire number of beads needed for the width of you work. For example, if you wanted something to be 9 beads wide you would string on 10 threads. The space between the threads will be where each of the beads “park”. 
Tie onto the first thread. String on the desired amount of beads. Run your needle under all the warp threads.
 Push all the beads up between the warp threads. Hold them there with a finger pushing them up to hold in place while you run your needle though all the beads. This will place the second pass on top of the warp threads, while the first pass through will be resting under the warp threads. This is what will be holding the beads in place. These are called the weft threads.
Once you have beaded your project, take it off the loom. You will have the warp threads left at each end. Each of these threads needs to be wooven into the beadwork. Don’t be intimidated! It isn’t that hard.
 I like to take the threads farthest left and right and run them through the first and last rows. This stabilizes the work a little bit. Thread the first thread onto your needle and run through the first row. You can tie a knot on the opposite warp thread, if you are working and edging onto your finished piece. If you are not then, work it up several rows between the last 2 beads. You can tie a half hitch onto the warp thread, or glue the end with a tiny drop of glue. Work the same way on the opposite side and again on both threads on the opposite end.
 You can work each of the threads up between the rows if you do not want to add fringe. Secure either with a knot or a small drop of glue.
To add fringe onto your warp threads, string on the desired number of beads. Push the last bead aside as the stop bead and run up through the rest. Weave your thread between the beads and tie off.
 If you intend to sew your beadwork onto a material, you can weave thread onto the ends to secure your threads be fore removing your work from the loom. Weave under over until you have about 1/2 of an inch. Once done I like to add waterproof fabric glue, making sure it is worked into all the fibers. Once it dries you can cut your piece off the loom, trim the threads. If you are concerned you can knot the warp threads together. Fold the ends under and sew your work down.
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