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The Elements of Style: Size, Shape, Scale and Texture
by Lynn M. Dean
“I could never do that,” one of my students said emphatically.
“You could never do what?” I asked.
“I could never create a necklace like that.”
 “All you do is string beads on tigertail,” I assured her. “If you can crimp, you can do it.”
“Oh, I could do that. But I could never design a necklace like that!”
Many people, it seems, have this same misconception. But I firmly believe that by understanding the principles of size, shape, scale and texture, and how they relate to one other, anyone can design not only a pleasing necklace, but one that “sings.” Size, shape, scale and texture are four of the five key elements of design. (We will explore the fifth, color, in more detail next month.) Good design is dependent upon how each of these elements plays off of the other, how they vary or repeat within a design, and how they compliment or contrast each other.
 To begin our discussion, let’s take a look at a necklace that incorporates only one of the key elements- my Mother’s Pearls. No, they did not belong to my mom. I call them this because I find the design somewhat staid and boring- something that my mother would have worn in the ‘60s. Sure they have the elements of size, shape, scale and texture- there’s just no “interest,” except, perhaps for the clasp- the only unexpected element I included to break up the boredom.
“Huh?” you’re probably saying. Stick with me for a minute, and I’ll explain. All of the pearls are the same size. They’re all the same shape. They all have the same glossy texture. They’re all a creamy white. The only “style” element going for this necklace is scale- the scale of the clasp goes with the scale of the pearls.
Now let’s look at this month’s necklace, Plum Indulgence (left) featuring focal beads by Susan Simonds (www.susansimonds.com ). See how all of the purple beads differ in size? The focal bead in the center is just a bit bigger than the focal beads in the main sections of the necklace.
Now look at the shape of the beads in the necklace. I’ve used only two shapes- rectangular, tablet-shaped focal beads and rondel-shaped companion beads. See how the shape of the larger purple beads are mirrored in the crystal beads and again in the gold spacers? To add more interest, I’ve varied the size of the rondel beads.
I’ve also added interest by varying the texture of the beads. Although they are all shiny and glossy, the faceted crystals and the sparkle of the gold add texture and depth to the design.
 You may not have noticed, but the second necklace, Purple Passion featuring two sets of focal beads by Dawn Trosper ( www.sunriselampwork.com ), is basically the same design as this one. The beads follow in the same sequence. But, see how varying the shape of the beads changes the whole necklace?
Also, notice the scale of the beads. See how the bicone, pyramid shaped beads are identical in scale to the pillow-shaped beads in the second necklace? To add interest, I included smaller round beads which not only pick up the gold in the pillow beads, but their swirls add texture. I’ve also mimicked the shape of the swirl beads in the small gold rounds that act as spacers between each bead.
I’ve incorporated another scale element into the focal pendant. It features a bead identical to the pillow beads, only larger in scale. To add more “pop” to the pendant, I’ve added a larger gold bead followed by a large round that has a swirl that mimics the swirls on the small round beads. Still, I’ve kept the pendant in scale with the scale of the necklace itself.
This second necklace also incorporates more beads than the plum one. I did this for two reasons: the beads in the purple necklace were smaller, so I could include more (Just remember, the smaller the beads, the more you’ll need); and, I didn’t have enough plum beads to add another set to the first necklace. (You work with what you have.) To make up for the shortage, I’ve added a longer chain on the plum necklace. But, because the chain then became a design element in the plum piece, it had to be a bigger, more substantial one to match the scale of the rest of the necklace.
Remember, my style is all about pop, but yours may not be. So, in order to understand how to incorporate these elements into your own style, we need to discuss these elements out of the context of my necklaces. In order to do this I’ve assembled some bead boxes that illustrate these elements at work.
The first box features pink, blue, and green beads. While this combination might work in a necklace, I’m doubtful, because there’s too much variation in scale, and I think there’s too much “interest”– there’s no place for your eyes to stop.
Let’s start with the scale. The scale of the four larger beads are in harmony. See how the smallest bead sticks out? Now, it could work if, like I did with Purple Passion, the small bead is used only to finish out the necklace, or as a “seed” bead. To really discover whether it would work or not, you’d have to play with the beads and different patterns, paying close attention to balancing out the scale.
As for too much “interest,” we’ve got four, maybe five colors going on, flowers and swirls, facets and dots. That’s a lot for your eyes to take in. It might work if all the beads were the same size. But then again...
Now let’s look at the green box. The combination of beads in this box has a lot going for it- the colors are in the same green hue, the stipes compliment the dots and the bumpy beads, and the scale is good- all except for the smallest bead. See how it stands out? Again, it could work, but you’d have to watch the overall scale of the piece.
The pink box has it all right. See how each bead would fit the overall scale of the “finished piece”? And while it may seem overwhelming to add all that interest with the different stripes and dots, because all the beads are in the same pink color family it works. Although these beads would make a pretty necklace, you could add more pop with a larger pink bead in a focal pendant.
Finally, let’s look at the fourth box. Here the glitz of the shiny gold and silver could be overwhelming, but it’s offset by the matte finishes of the larger black oval beads and smaller rondels. I’ve also added interest by varying the shape of the shiny beads. To finish this “piece” I would add only a touch of metal and, maybe black seed beads. Again, we’d have to play.
Everyone assumes that I know instinctively what works. I don’t. Like you, I have to play with the beads. I can’t always translate what I see in my head. Likewise, I can’t always look at a box of beads and see a finished necklace. I think I know what it would look like, but it often morphs in the design process. I have to play with size, shape, scale and texture, and so will you. Isn’t it time you got started?
 About The Author
Lynn Dean (The Purple Lady) is a freelance writer and jewelry artist living in Northern Colorado. She has taught beadworking classes for years and her jewelry has been featured in numerous art galleries.
If you would like Lynn to feature your lampwork beads in her work for this column, you may send them to her at P.O. Box 146, Timnath, CO 80547. If your beads sing to her, she will create a piece of jewelry and then, at your discretion return it to you, for a small fee, to use as a sample; donate the jewelry created to benefit a non-profit in Northern Colorado; or, if the beads are purple, wear the jewelry and advertise your work. If the beads don’t sing to her, she will return them to you
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